For example, you can put a red 2 on top of a black 3. This means that you need to move the cards around on the tableau to get to the ones you need.Īs with Klondike, you can only place a card on top of another one rank higher and with a different color. Likewise, you can only turn up a card facing down when the path to it is free. You can only send a card to the foundations when there is no other topping it. The cards must be transferred in order to the foundations. The goal in this game is to build the four foundations by suit, starting with the ace and ending with the king. The exception is the first column which only has one face-up card.Īt the top of the tableau are the foundations where the players must organize the cards by suit, starting with the ace and ending with the king. The five cards of each column closer to the player are facing up, while those further away are facing down.
The last column on the right must have 11 cards in total. The second column has 5 cards, and then the number increases by one with each column: the 3rd column has 6 cards, the 4th has 7 cards, and so on. The first column on the left has one card. All the cards are positioned in the tableau, forming 7 columns. Yukon Solitaire uses a standard 52-card deck. This means that, to some extent, Yukon Solitaire can be a much challenging game because once the players get stuck and they cannot find any available moves, they lose the game. The display of the tableau itself is also different from that of Klondike since all the cards are laid down in the columns and there is no stockpile. In a game of Yukon, there are very specific and unusual rules to move the cards around the tableau. However, this is where the similarities end. Likewise, the cards on the tableau can only be moved to top others with one rank higher and in alternating colors. The goal is the same in both cases, with the players having to build the foundations in ascending order. That's pretty much it.Yukon Solitaire is a card game inspired by the traditional Klondike Solitaire, but with significant differences. The goal, still, is to uncover the cards from the original deal.
Once I've had to deal from my hand, it's a matter of cleaning things up, with the aim of making the sullied runs long, and sullying fewer runs. So I guess I would say that (at least early on in the game) I aim to play all the "dealt" cards (the ones on the board, not the deck in "my hand" (the lower right-hand corner) while preserving a target. If I would have to sully the target, I just won't make the move, unless I spot a way to make a new, longer target with playable, visible cards. (I don't even know the correct terminology for the successful completion of a whole set, when the computer takes it off the board.)Īnyway, I'll continue playing out, mixing suits as much as I need to in order to reveal as many cards from the original deal as I can without sullying my target. I simply hit F2 again and again until I get a good set of cards to start with.Īfter playing out as far as possible without mixing suits, I identify my longest stack of single-suit cards, and keep that stack in mind as the target for my first complete run. I don't know if any of them actually help, but my husband's always teasing me about how often I win, so maybe there's something to it.įirst of all, I reject any deal that leaves me with more than a single pair of identical cards.
I do a few things to try to help my chances of winning.